Talking about timeless watch design: Temption CM01 and CM05

Link: Made in Germany: TEMPTION Watches – Another…

In the past TEMPTION concentrated on chronographs as well as on timepieces with complications.
Klaus Ulbrich, the owner of TEMPTION, a design junky by himself, has always been fascinated by design schools and by outstanding designers of the past.
He told me that Eileen-Gray and her adjustable glass table-object e1027 – which is almost 100 years old – is something which has influenced him.

His love for good design is probably the reason why design orientated watch lovers such as architects and similar professions aim for Temption’s aesthetically outstanding, puristic and stylish timepieces.
Temption watches seem to proof that puristic design is not affected by time. They stay timeless and are up to date forever.

The term „Temption“ results from a fusion of the Latin term of TEMPus et funcTIONes.

Basically Temption Watches is a one man show. Klaus Ulbrich`s motto is: „Pulchritudo in claritate“ which translates into: „beauty by clarity“.

Accordingly, Ulbrich feels inspired by the German Bauhaus tradition, but equally by an area of Japanese Zen philosophy and design art that is little known in Germany, which is called Wabi Sabi: Here everything depends on the emphasis on the essential, any distraction from it should be avoided, at the same time does not give the impression of compulsiveness and perfectionism.

Ulbrich often cites a story by the Japanese tea master and Zen monk „Sen nu Rickyu“ for explanation: „The son of the master clean and clean the gravel bed. Then the master took a withered branch, shook it with a gesture over the clear pebbles so that a few leaves fell, and directed his son: "Limit everything to the essentials but do not remove poetry; keep things simple and unencumbered, but don’t let them become sterile.“

Klaus Ulbrich has a degree in engineering (for a long time he worked for IBM) and has consistently focused his studies on watch technology and, for example, has mastered the construction of complex mechanical movements – annoyed by watches that instead of a clear and functional time display, there was a twinkle of circles, logos, labels and colors that tried to imitate the style of past decades nostalgically, that were not waterproof, that were too small, that had no date, framed the date or contrasted in color and much more.

Klaus Ulbrich once explained why he does what he is doing: „Watch design is a matter of taste and many design directions have established themselves on the market. There are flavors that, especially in recent times, focus on rejuvenating nostalgic clocks from the 1930s and 1940s, pilot and instrument clocks, clocks that basically represent jewelry with gold applications or pure gold designs, and many others. One design direction – instrument watches – was successfully established on the market by some companies in the late 1960s and 1970s. Especially Omega, Orfina, but also others at that time marketed models in the style of the time, which were cult objects of a generation at the time. Since the decline of mechanical calibers in the 70s and 80s, this design direction has not or only incompletely reappeared on the market after the "rebirth" of good watches. However, all good watches must integrate a maxim. Pure design and uncompromising dedication to the taste once selected. Terms such as the state of the art and long-term quality must be a prerequisite here, which is why the idea for an instrument watch collection matured that integrated terms such as functional design, ergonomics, long-term quality and, last but not least, clear, no-frills beauty. A collection with a philosophy behind it, so it was not about establishing a new brand on the market, but rather consistently implementing this philosophy. To give the market a collection that does not exist in this way and that exists especially for watch lovers. A philosophy whose implemented products stand out from the diverse range on the market and set new standards in terms of clarity, beauty and long-term quality. The way there was not easy. The search for comrades-in-arms was the most uncomplicated, because the urge to generate good watches resides in many watch lovers who are also willing to do something for it. Gaining understanding from investors – especially in an economically difficult time, in which the market for good watches is also stagnating, was a more difficult challenge, but the implementation of the design philosophy in technology also proved to be a real task. For example, the day or day/date displays a lot of effort and printing processes. A lot of complex work, which in our view is an indispensable basis for long-term quality, remains invisible. The hidden ratchets and springs of the bezel, which are made of stainless steel and not like some, are just one example. Also common in the high price sector made of plastic. The result was worth the effort, and Temption not only won specialists from renowned Swiss trade houses, but from all over Europe. Professionals who have mastered their profession and who have added their long experience and reputation to exclusive watchmaking. Watches are now being offered which the buyers will wear with pride and which are special. Watches that are not cheap but inexpensive. Watches that are destined for decades and that the sons of the buyers will still wear with pride.“

Being asked in 2016 what the ground rules of Temption watches are Klaus Ulbrich’s answer was:

„Each design must include the following:

• Simplicity
• Less is more
• Form follows function
• The dials are simple; easy to read, ergonomic, and the date window is always the same color of the dial.
• High contrast between the hands and the dial.
• Hidden logo as, in our point of view, a dominant logo spoils the ergonomics of the dial.“

Temption CM05

For bracelet aficionados Temption offers a three hand watch which offers a fully integrated solid stainless steel bracelet. The Temption CM05 is really very beautiful (and solid) and in real life even more beautiful than than images on the Internet suggest.

It is really hard to capture it „character“. In my opinion, same is valid for the pictures on the manufacturer’s website.

The CM05 is a simple, yet puristic, and highly functional watch with a touch of Bauhaus theme. The dial is a matte black with a black on black restraint Temption logo and a small frame around the centrally mounted date window (that is also a black disc). There is a strong element of "less is more".
The hour markers and hands have SuperLuminova applied to them.

Overall, the CM05 is a modern, sporty looking watch with a dial in a very renitent form, with a distinct emphasis on understatement – form follows function.

Some of you might spot a subtle diver optics, and yes that has been the first impression of a lot of guys I spoke to in Berlin when parading with the CM05. I presume that it actually is not easy for everybody to appreciate the dial at first sight, but continuously looking at it and thinking about the idea behind will convince you after a while.

Technical specifications:

Case:
Stainless steel 316L, ø 42 mm, height 10.8 mm, screwed display back with sapphire crystal, wr 10 atm / 100m, stainless steel bezel, one directional, 60 teeth, screwed crown, 24mm lug width

Movement:
Swiss automatic ETA 2892-A2 or Soprod A10-2, fine finish

Crystal:
2,6mm sapphire crystal, slightly domed and ar coated on the inside only

Dial/hands:
Matte black with a black on black logo
Hands and 12h marker blue and indexes luminescent green

Bracelet:
Full integrated 24mm 316L stainless steel, double folding

Weight:
169g with bracelet

All parts of the watch are screwed together, no rivets or studs, no pressing.

The bracelet (24mm) is fully integrated into the case. Hence the watch shapes an aesthetic entity. It is screwed together in every link with large head screws It contains two ¾ links. When adding or removing a ¾ link or combining it with a normal link, the bracelet’s length may be adjusted by the millimetre.

The crown is screwed in and is fitted with a black onyx cabochon, another distinguishing feature of Temption watches.

Of course the nicely decorated movement can be seen through the sapphire glass bottom.

Temption CM01

Already in 2013, Temption debuted with the minimalist CM01 watch, a reduced three-hand automatic with an extraordinary cyclops magnifier for the date. this „eye“ is grinded into the sapphire crystal from the underneath. I am sure that’s something you haven’t seen that often here on WatchUSeek or elsewhere.

With the CM01 Klaus Ulbrich has expanded the model portfolio with a version that, according to the manufacturer, is a world champion in readability and ergonomics.
All components have a matching color, including the date disc. The date magnifier is something very special.

Temption took a new approach here, which is now made possible by the improved sapphire production methods. The eye is ground into the sapphire from below and warrants unlimited sharpness and clarity for a long watch life.

The Temptation CM01 offers excellent readability and ergonomics. The caliber is based on a Swiss SOPROD A10-2 made in Jura-Les Ecureuils)or an ETA 2892A2.

Again, the crown is fitted with a cabochon which is made of black onyx and the calfskin strap offers a solid folding clasp. The crown, display back and strap bars are screwed.

The 43mm diameter meets the „masculine need“ and sits comfortably on my wrist, a large watch without being oversized.

Technical specs:

Case:
Stainless steel 316L, ø 43 mm, height 9.8 mm, screwed display back with sapphire crystal, wr 10 atm / 100m, screwed crown, 22mm lug width, screw-in crown with only cabochon

Movement:
Swiss automatic ETA 2892-A2 or SOPROD A10-2, nicely finished

Dial/hands:
Matte black with a black on black logo, sometimes depending on the lighting a touch of grey shimmer

Strap:
Black calf leather strap with deployant, 22mm

Weight:
90gr

Lume shots